That was unexpected...

Setting the bike up to be a naked was, as it turns out, the easy part. I attempted to start the bike after fitting the new mufflers...and...nothing. Not exactly nothing, but more like the sound of a bad starter solenoid of clicking and grinding.

Fast forward to pulling the starter...not good. The ring gear that was pressed on the flywheel broke. The noise I heard was not a bad starter, but the ring gear spinning on said flywheel.

Start at the rear wheel and move forward... strip the entire bike up to the trans. Not very difficult as the bike is very well laid out using a handful of tools.

This will give me an opportunity to clean a bunch of areas usually hidden.

 The center stand is attached to the trans, so an A-frame was used to support the rear of the bike. Trans off, flywheel accessible.

Not having to pull the entire engine is a major bonus here. Big props for a thoughtful design.

19mm twelve sided impact socket and the flywheel was off. Now the hard part...

Jack used under engine to steady the bike while the trans was removed.

 The flywheel is at least 3 plates that reduce the power pulses from the engine. This is what makes the racket when a Motus is at idle. Pretty copper plating.

Dual mass flywheel or otherwise known as 'the growler'

One challenge when pressing the plate at the ring depth. The top and bottom of flywheel are flat (bonus), but the ring needs to seat deeper. Stack the broken ring on top of the good ring...solved!

The flywheel looks frosty because it just came out of the freezer...

A bit of trial and error to get the ring to start and seat fully square, then all the way to the rear seat.

New ring gear, ready to go back together.














Taking the bike down to the frame allows for some cleanup. The bike sat for a bit in insurance limbo (outside) before it was sold off. The bike then spent a day in salt (wow, St. Louis goes bonkers when it snows), washed, another 18 hours trailer ride home, wash, then my garage. 

The levers and side stand took a beating. They were not in the best condition BEFORE powder coated from the factory. Some of what you see here was under the factory powder coat. 

Some Jasco epoxy stripper makes short work of just about any powder coating in 15 minutes. Thicker powder needs a few applications. A short time in the sand blaster is next.

The parts were powdered with 13% gloss textured black. Cured at about 400 degrees F for ~15 minutes. Some powder coating tape was used on the pivot brackets and silicone plugs used in threaded holes. 

Some parts are a challenge to coat. Powder is charged with high voltage and 'sticks' to the part. Charged powder doesn't always like to go into recesses or voids...geek term: Faraday cage effect. You can attempt to blow uncharged powder into these voids. 

Some point edges are also a challenge as the powder will build on a flat surface, but move away from a pointy edge. The foot levers would almost be better off covered with 'LineX' bed liner for durability. 

Back together and ready for a test ride. The re-assembly was fairly painless and straightforward. 

Time for a test ride!